SGSG = Seriously Great Snow Grooming

Sun Valley, Idaho, was the first purpose-built ski resort in the United States. It opened in 1936. I'm now at Tamarack, the most recent purpose-built resort in the United States. It opened in 2004. Both are located in southern Idaho.

The contrast between these resorts in their infancy is a study in elevated expectations. Sun Valley was 1930s luxury -- a posh lodge, a huge outdoor heated pool, one chairlift, movie star guests, exotic imported Austrian ski instructors. Tamarack is 21st-century luxury -- one lodge and 60 cozy cottages (the super-luxe Fairmont Tamarack is under construction), an outdoor heated pool and private hot tubs behind each cottage, three high-speed quad chairlifts and four other lifts, sports star guests (Andre Agassi and Steffi Graf are behind the Fairmont project), home-grown ski and snowboard instructors. (OK, not just sports stars, but also George and Laura Bush (probably because Idaho remains the most reliably red state in the Union, and that's probably where the president felt most welcome) and pop idols Hilary and Hailey Duff (famous for being famous, I suppose).

I wasn't there to spot stars (although Agassi was snowboarding at Tamarack while I was on two boards) but rather to ski. Neither Sun Valley nor Tamarack has had new snow in a while (January 9 is the date I heard), but it is a testimonial to Tamarack that the skiing is fabulous. There is no powder, of course, but the snowcats are prowling the slopes every night, turning the old snow into superlative corduroy that invites high-speed cruising (above right). I'm awestruck by their mastery of manicuring the mountain.

Tamarack is developing into a full resort that also offers cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, snowmobiling and back-country ski access via snowcat , but the crust over dust doesn't make for the best ski experience. A group of us rode out by cat to Lone Tree Mountain, part of the 5,000 acres of backcountry terrain adjacent to the lift-served area. Head guide David Williams wasn't enthusiastic about the conditions after so much time without snow, so we took in the view but bagged the idea of skiing the ungroomed. This was no real sacrifice because the groomers have been so very good. It has been extremely cold (below zero every night and safely in the freezing zone every day), so nothing is melting -- and cover is still good.

I skied one day at nearby Brundage Mountain, a classic, family-friendly ski area that has ambitions to upgrade and expand, perhaps to keep up with the Tamarack Joneses. They also have groomed their old snow to fine skiability, and even on a Friday when local schools were having their ski day, there were no lines. I am told, however, that the ski area draws a good crowd on weekends, because it's a favorite of skiers and snowboarders from Boise -- normally two to two-and-a-half hours to the south, depending on traffic and road conditions.

Snow is forecast for tomorrow (Sunday). Guess when I'm leaving. Right. Tomorrow (Sunday). Of course, I'd love to be here for the powder, but I can't complain about the conditions or the sunshine and scenery.