Guidebook Takes You to the Top

Boulder author hasn't met a summit he didn't like -- and he wrote a book about his favorite fifty plus a few

The names of Colorado's 54 fourteeners -- peaks of at least 14,000 feet in elevation -- are emblazoned on T-shirts, sweatshirts, neckerchiefs and water bottles. Some have technical routes, requiring ropes and real climbing skills, but every one has at least one hike-up route. There are, to my knowledge, at least four fourteener hiking/climbing guides, one of which has been in print since 1978. Coloradans set goals of climbing them all, climbing them all in one year, climbing them all in one summer and, in the case first of Lou Dawson and more recently Chris Davenport, climbing up and skiing down all of them.

In Best Summit Hikes in Colorado, Boulder author James Dziezynski wrote both about his favorite fourteeners and lesser peaks as well, including some that are nameless and/or do not even have a trail to the summit. He enjoys traversing ridges that link neighboring mountains or summits and their subpeaks. His book details (and I really mean details) the routes he has followed. Some do require serious scrambling or have significant exposure, but many others are simply walk-ups.

Dziezynski has included features in his guide that I have not seen in any other Colorado trails book. I like his upfront thumbnail descriptions of the terrain. He writes that Mt. Elbert is ascended via a "well-maintained trail," while Mt. Powell requires "tricky off-trail navigation to steep, challenging hill climbs." For most hikers, that immediate separates out the doable, the difficult and the impossible. I also like his Gear Advisor such as "gaiters, trekking poles or ice axe, GPS," "helmet, good grippy boots" or simply "normal gear" are needed under most conditions.

His intro to every peak and his Quick Facts about the story of each mountain are interesting and his Why Climb It? offers insights that most authors don't bother sharing. The meticulous route guide itself locate each trail feature by mileage and also keys it numerically to a map. Of course, there is information on reaching each trailhead and lots of relevant numbers, such as distance, lowest and highest elevation, total elevation gain, trail rating by difficulty and estimated hiking time. The extensive introductory material includes some basics on first aid, altitude sickness, weather, flora, fauna, human impact on the Rockies

The book was published toward the end of last summer, so for all practical purposes, it is new this year. I suspect that some of those remoted, unheralded summits will feel a few more footfalls from now on.

Inflation Hits Travel Prices

Travel costs rose by an inflationary 6 percent over 2007

The Travel Industry Association, which keeps track of such things, released the following dismaying report, just as the summer travel season is gearing up:

"The April Travel Price Index, TPI, rose 6.0 percent compared to April 2007. Gasoline prices increased 5.6 percent from March and jumped 21.1 percent
from one year ago. Lodging prices were up 0.8 percent compared to April 2007 and
down 2.2 percent from last month. Airfares increased 10.1 percent against twelve
months earlier and 0.9 percent from previous month. The Consumer Price Index, or
CPI-U, was up 3.9 percent from April 2007.

"Developed by TIA, the Travel Price Index (TPI) measures the seasonally
unadjusted inflation rate of the cost of travel away from home in the United
States. The TPI is based on U.S. Department of Labor price data collected for
the monthly Consumer Price Index (CPI). The TPI is released monthly and is
directly comparable to the CPI. Please click here to access the current month Index."

More Airline Woes

Tough times continue for Mesa, Frontier and US Airways

Just two days ago, I wrote that we are all tired of these troubled travel times and posted some positive news about a few favorite places in the West celebrating important anniversaries this year. That was then, and this is now -- time to report more discouraging airline news. Mesa Air promises to file for bankruptcy on July 20 if Delta severs its commuter contract for regional service. For its part, Delta claims that Mesa has not lived up to some of its agreements. Without going into tedious detail, the result could be that travelers again are the losers.

Frontier employees have taken pay cuts to help out their employer, which is operating under bankruptcy protection.

The New York Times reported yesterday that the United-US Airways merger talks appear to have unraveled. According to the paper, "There has been little to no contact between United Airlines and US Airways in recent days and the internal teams of senior executives at both companies, as well as external bankers and lawyers assigned to the project, have put it on 'permanent hold,”' one person involved in the talks said. While it remained possible the talks could be revived, people involved in the most recent discussions said they had never advanced to final negotiations."

Perhaps in preparation for continuing to go it alone, US Airways is further circling its fiscal wagon by eliminating free peanuts in economy class.

Major Western Anniversaries

Visit the wildlife refuge and classi amusement park at 100, renowned resort at 90, tribal park at 50, Asian teahouse at 10

I'm tired of writing about the miserable state of air travel these days, the diving American dollar and the increasing abuses inflicted on travelers by the Transportation Security Administration, and if you are a regular visitor, you're probably tired of reading about them. So here is an anniversary tribute to a quintet of very different places in the Rocky Mountain region and the Southwest that I've enjoyed and hope that you will too.

Centennial - National Bison Range, Moise, MT

If it weren't for the National Bison Range, the great shaggy beast that once dominated the Plains by the millions might exist today only on the nickel. In fact, the range's Bill West declared, "The whole concept of saving an endangered species sort of begin with the American Bison Society 100 years ago. It started the idea of philanthropy in the wildlife realm and also the idea of buying land specficially for wildlife."

With the support of President Theodore Roosevelt, Congress established the National Bison Range in 1908, when the national census of bison (commonly referred to as "buffalo") had dwindled to a few hundred head in private ownership, including some under the protection of the Pend Oreille peoples, and a federally protected herd in Yellowstone National Park.

Today, the 18,500-acre National Bison Range is a federal wildlife refuge whose 340- to 500-head herd is carefully managed to maintain health and diversity. If you go, stop at the visitor center before embarking on one of three self-drive vehicle tours. In addition to bison, you might see elk, deer, pronghorn, black bear, coyote and ground squirrels, and birds, birds birds. Among the more 200 species of birds that call the home are eagles, hawks, meadowlarks, bluebirds, ducks and geese.

National Bison Range, 58355 Bison Range Road, Moiese, MT 59824; 406-644-2211.

Centennial - Lakeside Amusement Park, Denver

Long before there was Disneyland and all the corporate-owned destination theme parks that have followed, there were local "amusement parks" with rides, entertainment and gardens. Denver had at least two, the original Elitch's in northwest Denver and Lakeside Amusement Park, which opened on Memorial Day 1908 on the city's western fringes. The current Elitch's bears no resemblance to the original, having been relocated to the Platte River Valley, acquired and divested by Six Flags. Through it all, Lakeside has remained a friendly old-style park.

When it opened, it was called the “Coney Island of the West,” because it was ablaze with 100,000 electric lights. No one was concerned about leaving a big carbon footprint in those days! It was so popular that a trolley line was laid to drop visitors right at the illuminated Tower of Jewels, then Colorado’s tallest building and still a local landmark. Today, the 40 major rides include spinning rides, upside-down rides, flying rides and a new drop tower. Don’t miss the classic wooden Cyclone Coaster, the original merry-go-round, and two tiny trains pulled by the country’s last two miniature steam locomotives from the 1904 World’s Fair. Family-owned Lakeside welcomes today’s families with a charming Kiddies’ Playland and affordable pricing.

Starting next week, Lakeside will be open daily through August 17, and then weekends through Labor Day. Gate admission (no rides) is just $2.50 (single ride tickets are available); unlimited rides $13.75 weekdays, $19.75, Friday through Sunday through Labor Day. Through sounds and images, the nostalgia-rich website evokes the feeling of a century ago.

Lakeside Amusement Park; 4601 Sheridan Boulevard, Denver; 303-477-1621.

90 Years - The Broadmoor, Colorado Springs

Next month the Broadmoor celebrates its 90th anniversary. I was kind of hoping that this magnificent resort hotel, which has been honored with more AAA Diamonds, Mobil Stars and assorted wine and hospital official accolades than any other, would make a big production of this noteworthy annivesary. But either they are saving their firepower for the centennial, only 10 years from now, or are so busy with the upcoming US Senior Open Golf Championship coming up on July 28-August 3 that there's no time to throw a birthday party worthy of Broadmoor standards.

The hotel opened with three buildings, 111 guest rooms, one golf course and lofty ambitions to match the finest European hotels in terms of architecture, cuisine and most of all, service. It is now the grandest resort in Colorado, and one of the grandest in North America. Set on 3,000 acres, it now includes 593 hotel rooms, 107 suites, 40 new "cottage" accommodations, 14 dining facilities from the fine-dining Penrose Room to the casual snackbar-style Cafe Julie, four lounges, magnifident public spaces, three golf courses, a tennis center, pools, a luxurious health club, a private lake, a movie theater, meeting and thousands of square feet of convention space, plus, plus, plus.

There's no better place Colorado, and few in the country, for a sybaritic vacation or romantic getaway, a wonderful special occasion dinner or Sunday brunch (right), an opulent 70-item feast in the Lake Terrace Dining Room (adults, $38). But even if you are on a tight budget, you can come into the hotel, walk the main-floor corridors whose walls are hung with historic photos and memorabilia, stroll around the lake, park yourself on a lakeside bench or sink into a comfortable chair in the grand lobby. It doesn't cost a king's ransom to dine in The Tavern (lunch, $9.50-$28; dinner $16-$48). Any way that your budget and time permit, this would be the year to come and share the anniversary spirit of this landmark resort.

The Broadmoor, 1 Lake Avenue, Colorado Springs; 719-577-5775 or 866-837-9520 (hotel reservations), or 719-634-7711.

50 Years - Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, AZ/UT

Monument Valley's spectacular sandstone towers, arches and fins are ancient formations that have served as backdrops for numerous Western films, but the official Navajo Nation tribal park designation is "only" 50 years old this year. Earlier this month, the anniversary was celebrated with two days of races -- a marathon, half-marathon, 10K relay and 5K fun run. Monument Valley Celebration Day Coming up on July 11 are the Drums of Summer and Outdoor Concert Series with live entertainment. The golden-anniversary year culiminates in the Monument Valley Hot Air Balloon Rally, December 12-14, with balloons entered by invitation only. Also scheduled for completion later this year is the new View Hotel & Spa. Otherwise, all you need to do is drive or ride through the park. General admission is $5. Guided tours, camping and hiking are also available. Inquire about permit procedures and fees.

Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, P.O. Box 360289, Monument Valley, UT 84536; 435-727-5870. The visitor center is at the junction of Highway 89 and Highway 64 in Cameron, AZ.

10 Years - Dushanbe Teahouse, Boulder

Dushanbe, Tajikistan, is one of Boulder's sister cities. As a token of friendship, that central Asian city donated a classic teahouse, tiled inside and out, to the City of Boulder. It took some time for Boulder to decide where to erect it and more time for Tajik artisans to assemble it here. It opened in 1998, and in just a decade, it has become such a Boulder fixture that it seems to have been in place forever.

Within the intricate and colorful walls, the Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse is a popular place to come for a meal or a spot of tea -- an oasis of Asian tranquility. It is neither strictly vegetarian nor vegan but offers many dishes to meet these dietary needs. Breakfast and brunch entrees, $5.95-$11; breakfast scones and pastries, $1.50-$2.25; dinner entrees, $13-$18.

The Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse is at 1770 13th Street (that's the Boulder Country Farmers' Market block), Boulder; 303-442-4993.

Air Fares & Add-on Fees: Up, Up & Away

The cost of flying Frontier, American, Delta and United continues to climb

Like a jet plane soaring to cruising altitude, the cost of flying continues to climb. "Crisis" is the word most often heard in airline circles. The latest news, tough on travelers but necessary given the unchecked inflation of aviation fuel, includes:

Frontier Airlines, which is already operating under bankruptcy protection, became the latest carrier to jump on the second-bag-charge bandwagon. Just before the long Memorial Day weekend, the Denver-based carrier announced that as of June 10, it will charge $15 per second checked bag costs $25. Also, the surcharge for oversize and/or overweight bags will rise from $50 to $75, and the cost of bringing a pair of antlers climbs from $75 to $100. Don't laugh. With a strong presence in the Mountain States, Frontier flies a lot of hunters -- and if successful, they like to bring their trophies home. Frontier’s mileage club members, active military duty personnel and people who purchase tickets before June 10 will be exempt from the extra bag charge, but presumably not the other increases.

The fee for unaccompanied minors aged five through 14 rises on two carriers. American is increasing it from $75 to $100 each way. Delta, which until now charged $50 for nonstops and $100 for connecting flights, is leveling all fees at $100, connection or no connection.

Pet policies and fees are changing as well -- and not favorably for animal owners. American and Delta are upping the fee for bringing pets into the cabin to $100 each way, up from $80 and $75, respectively. Checking a pet into the cargo hold rises to $150 each way on American, up from $100, and $200 on Delta, up from $150. Frontier is barring pets from airplane cabins altogether starting June 10. I wonder whether flying a live, crated animal will cost the same as a pair of antlers.

American, Delta and United are raising their fares by as much as $60 roundtrip for flights of more than 1,500 miles. People who track such things note that it will be the big airlines' 12th successive increase this year. Meanwhile, big-box retailers are promoting home, garden and patio enhancements for those who have thrown in the 2009 travel towel and are planning a "staycation" instead.

Intrusive New Airport Security Sceening

Explicit "full body scan" in place at six major US airports, including DIA

The Transportation Security Administration is at it again with an invasive new screening process. Denver International Airport (starting yesterday), Phoenix's Sky Harbor International Airport, Los Angeles International, New York's JFK International Airport, Baltimore-Washington International and Albuquerque International Sunport have installed L-3 Communications' millimeter-wave screening devices. These $158,000 machines bounce radio waves off the body to produce what has been described as "a graphic, whole-body image." While it is designed to reveal weapons and explosives that people might hide on their persons, it actually produces a controversial anatomically revealing image that is shockingly intrusive and invasive.

In a piece called "Airport Rolls Out Full-Body Scanning," Denver Post reporter Jeffrey Leib asked about travelers' legitimate privacy concerns:

"Travelers who do not want to submit to millimeter-wave screening can opt
for a pat-down search instead, [David] Bassett, [TSA's federal security director
in Denver] said. The new technology is 'less invasive' than the pat down,
he said. 'Some people don't want to be touched.'... To deal with privacy concerns, TSA is offering protections on whole-body scanning, including blurring the faces on images of passengers being screened, examining the images in a remote room and offering no possibility for images to be stored, printed, transmitted or reproduced, Bassett said.

"Whole-body imaging 'is an extremely high invasion of privacy,' although
TSA's effort to ensure that images are never made public is 'commendable,' said John Soma, a University of Denver law professor and executive director of the
Privacy Foundation. 'The compliance level has to be extremely high,' Soma said
of TSA's need to adhere to its rules in order to protect passengers' privacy. A
sign at the entrance of the millimeter-wave machine at DIA tells passengers to
'Remove everything from your pockets before entering. This includes all paper,
plastic items, pens and wallets.'

"As a passenger stands in the machine, it takes 2 seconds for the image to
be generated and 10 to 12 seconds for a screener in another room to interpret
the scan. On Wednesday, TSA employees stood in the machine to demonstrate its
capabilities. In a tiny, closed room at the back of the checkpoint, screener
Bill Whitlock scanned the image that appeared on his computer screen. It was
graphic and detailed, and the face was blurred. A shirt button, a belt buckle
and underwire in a bra were visible. Whitlock used a two-way radio to tell
another screener stationed at the millimeter-wave machine that the image had
been reviewed and the person could exit the machine. A sign on the door to the
small screening room says, 'Warning: Following items prohibited beyond this
point. — cellphones — video cameras — image-capturing devices. '

"Bassett said millimeter-wave screening will complement other technologies
already installed at checkpoints, including explosive-trace-detection portals,
or 'puffers,' that blow jets of air over a passenger's body and analyze air
samples for explosive residue. 'The puffer is sniffing; this is seeing,' Bassett
said of the millimeter-wave technology."

For a PG-13 version of how the system works, click here and follow the obvious links. The videos seem to be L-3 Communications', so they appear quite innocuous. The device works quickly and could, in theory, speed up the security process, but checking in has become such a long and tedious process that gaining a little time per passenger seems a high price to pay for this assult on personal privacy.

There are unpleasant side effects too. In addition to an intrusive new system inflicted on any one of us card-carrying Americans, our government now abuses our foreign visitors both coming and going. We fingerprint and photograph them when they enter the country as if they were under arrest, and we now can subject them them to a revealing full-body scan when they leave. Did I mention that this millimeter-wave scanning device is also being sold to "justice centers" (i.e., courthouses and jails).

Southwest Will Win Friends with Two-Bag Allowance

Low-cost carrier retains traditional checked-bag policies

On the heels of American Airlines' ill-conceived decision to begin levying a $15 charge for the first checked bag for most passengers and several carrier's recently instituted second-bag fee of $25, Southwest just sent out the following statement, which I quote in its entirety:

"Today's New York Times story on American Airlines' plan to charge for all checked luggage included a reference to Southwest Airlines that said, 'Other major American airlines, including Southwest Airlines, said Wednesday that they were considering matching the fee.' That is not true. The next line quotes a Southwest spokesperson saying, 'We're doing everything we can do to boost revenue, but it's not our goal to nickel and dime our customers.' That is true. We want to assure you that Southwest Airlines still allows you to check up to two free bags when you travel with us, and has no plans to change that. You can still count on Southwest Airlines to provide high quality air travel at a low fare, without a lot of extra fees. We look forward to seeing you onboard very soon. (And bring your luggage!)"

As I noted in my blog post yesterday that included news of this American Airlines "revenue enchancer," I believe that this surcharge will backfire and many passengers will avoid American whenever they can. Fifteen dollars is not a fortune, but for the proverbial family of four on a tight budget, that additional $60 each way to check just one bag apiece, the new fee can make or break a trip. Now, perhaps driving becomes a more reasonable option -- and so is staying home and enjoying what has come to be called a "staycation."

The entire issue of surcharges set travel consumer advocate Christopher Elliott off on a recent rant. He wrote "Five Airline Fees That Make Absolutely No Sense Whatsover" -- and that was before American decided to impose a fee for even the first checked bag.