East African Game at Risk

Thomas Friedman, Pulitzer Prize-winning author and New York Times columnist, is in East Africa. In a recent column, he wrote of Kenya's Masai Mara, "Surely of all of God's creations, none is more beautiful than the Masai Mara grassland...The sun's ascent here is like a curtain going up on one of Mother Nature's richest ecosystems. Through the day you can be greeted by a bull elephant in hot pursuit of a cow, serenaded by tropical boubou birds, intimidated by two lionesses devouring a warthog, amused by the cattle egrets riding on the backs of African buffalos and impressed by how each small cluster of topi antelope 'assigns' one topi to watch for predators while the others graze. Everything seems in perfect balance."

I have never been to Kenya, but I have been to Tanzania's great national game parks: Serengeti, Lake Manyara, Ngorongoro Crater and Tarangiri and came away with the same impression. But that was nearly 11 years and, as Friedman notes, "behind the curtain" things were not so great -- and they haven't gotten any better.

He points to deforestation, wildlife poaching and "now climate change [that] present a trio of threats" to the Mara and also to the Tanzanian parks that my family and I visited. A Boulder friend who visited East Africa last summer came back with terrible tales of drought and desperation. This year appears to be no better, as the equatorial region continues to become dryer and the once-reliable rains no longer are so.

Kenya's rhinoceros population has plummeted from 20,000 in 1963 to 500 today. Friedman quotes Julius Kipng'etich, director of Kenya's wildlife service, saying, "When you see a rhino today, you are very lucky. Your children or grandchildren may never see one." We were lucky to see three of the fewer than two dozen rhinos known in Tanzania when we visited. We drove around and around Ngorongoro Crater, with our sharp-eyed driver-guide who spotted them in the grass at least a quarter of a mile from our Land Rover. With strong binoculars, we could just spot them slowly rising up from the grass. When I later saw one at the Denver Zoo, I put it into context of my own then-recent travels.

Friedman pointed out that Africa accounts for less than 3 percent of the emissions that contribute to global warming, yet its fragile and threatened ecosystems suffer from the problems caused by the developed world. "You [industrial countries] are causing aggression toward us by causing global warming," Uganda's President Yoweri Museveni said at the African Union summit recently.

Drought, famine, disease and death will increase upon Africa's human population. The animals that we travel so far to see in their native habitats are already fall to that fate.

Galapagos "In Crisis"; Ecuador Might Suspend Tourist Visits

Eleven-and-a-half years ago, we visited the Galapagos, cruising from island to island on a 12-passenger motor-sailer called the "Diamante." The map on the right, from VisitEcuador.com shows the relationship of these islands, which are 600 miles from the coast of Ecuador, to each other. Our visit was a "National Geographic Special" come to life. The volcanic islands sport rare plant species, and among the many animal species we saw were abundant seals, marine and land iguanas, and many birds, including the world's most northerly penguin, petrels, flightless cormorants, albatross, frigate birds, blue-footed boobies, herons, flamingos and several of the finch species that jump-started Charles Darwin's thoughts on evolution.

Our too-short visit did not include any island where the archipelago's famous giant tortoises are still to be found -- and it did not include either of the small settlements on the islands of Santa Cruz (where the only tourist town is located) or San Cristobal (site of the Galapagos' political capital). There was trouble of some sketchily described sort -- perhaps between local and mainland fishermen, perhaps between fishing interests and conservationists, perhaps between predatory Japanese fishing fleets and Ecuadorian fishermen, perhaps something else entirely. In any case, we were unable to visit the famous Charles Darwin Research Station on Santa Cruz.

Now, El Comercio, an Ecuadorian newspaper, reported on an emergency degree signed by President, Rafael Correa responding to a social and environmental crisis, indicated that he would consider temporarily suspending tourism permits to the Galapagos and enforcing other restrictions to prevent further environmental harm. Sustainability in the face of increased and too loosely regulated tourism, population pressure, threats from invasive non-native species and other critically harmful problems have brought these islands to this crisis state.

"We are pushing for a series of actions to overcome the huge institutional, environmental and social crisis in the islands," President Correa was quoted as saying. He reportedly ordered the Governor of Galapagos to convene an urgent meeting of the Institute Nacional Galapagos (INGALA) to determine the balance between conservation and development, the potential halt to new tourist permits and even the possible suspension of commercial air service.

Some international reports mistakenly claimed that tourists would be hereafter barred from the Galapagos, though Ecuador, of which claimed the mid-Pacific Galapagos back in 1832, emphasized that tourism might be suspended, not prohibited, and that any suspension would be temporary.

The Charles Darwin Foundation (CDF) issued a press release affirming “strong support for yesterday’s declaration by Ecuador’s President Rafael Correa that Galapagos is at risk and is a national conservation priority." International conservation agencies have been monitoring the Galapagos for years, and various Ecuadorian and international organizations have carved out their own little environmental fiefdoms on the environmentally fragile islands and also do not always seem to get along.

A high-level delegation from the UNESCO World Heritage Committee, led by Director Francesco Bandarin, is currently or will soon be visiting Ecuador to study the state of Galapagos and make recommendations on whether to list Galapagos as an endangered World Heritage site. Not surprisingly, President Correa claimed that Ecuador does not need attention from international organizations. Leaders of countries that do not or cannot take care of their precious environmental and cultural treasures always say seem to believe things like that.

Since whatever problems kept us off the two inhabited islands more than a decade ago, things have gotten tense. There have been recent reports of an assault on Galapagos National Park rangers who were attempting to stop a kayaking operation on Baltra Island. Hard to believe, gut the rangers were injured by members Ecuador's own Air Force on a nearby island. Both the commander of the Air Force base and the Puerto Ayora port captain or harbormaster were reportedly relieved of their duties. Pressure is growing to contain and more strictly regulate tourist development, which might be getting out of hand. Still, during our visit, we were impressed by the environmental sensitivity and his by-the-book regard for Galapagos National Park regulations as he shepherded us around the islands. Clearly, things have even changed since our visit.

Passport Renewal Taking 10 Weeks

"eFlyer," an E-newsletter put out by Global Traveler, is reporting that US passport renewals, as well as first-time applications, are currently being processed slowly. The timeframe now appears to be up to about 10 weeks, about a month longer than previously. "eFlyer" attributes the new backlog to the recently passed Western Hemisphere Initiative requiring Americans to carry passports for travel to the Caribbean and Mexico, where previously a vote ID card and other official documents sufficed. there is a massive backlog in the passport application process that is equally affecting passport renewals. Applications for new passports has backed up renewals too.

More cautionary news is that even the $60 expedited service has stretched form two weeks to three or even four. "eFlyer" advises, "You’ll speed up your expedited application if, in addition to using the proper form and enclosing your check, you write 'expedite' prominently on the envelope." The newsletter also reports that both local and regional passport offices are often requiring appointments.

The National Passport Information Center (877-4USAPP) is open from 6:00 a.m. to midnight Monday through Friday for those who must travel within seven days. "eFlyer" further notes that "there is a limited staff who will even take your call on weekends. But as with other passport processing, the phone lines are jammed; it may take multiple calls to get through to a human being. Email forms are available on the website, but only for general inquiries since — surprise! — they take a while to get answered, too. These days, 'passport' is spelled with three Ps — planning, patience and persistence."

Even before this slow process (another P), I learned not to let my passport renewal go later than six months prior to the expiration date of the current one. A number of years ago, I went to Turkey on a one-week trip with a passport that was still three months from expiring -- not the six months that I had no idea that Turkish authorities wanted. The officials at the airport in Istanbul didn't want to let me in at all. They finally did, after a serious plea (still another P) and the presentation (yet another P) of my return airline ticket showing that I was booked to leave the country seven days later. The lesson seems to be that renew your passport if it is within six months of expiring, and then expect to wait a while until you get your new one.

Diane Sawyer in Afghanistan

Good Morning America anchor Diane Sawyer is reporting from Afghanistan this week. The state of the Afghan nation, the status of women, the ressurgence of the Taliban and the importance of the opium poppy in the Afghan economy were topics that she covered today. But she did a food segment, reporting on her visit to a bakery where she bought and ate some wonderful-looking flatbread baked in a tandoor. She visited a market where she tasted spinach- and potato-stuffed soft bread that resembled large empanadas and meant to be eaten with a red or green dipping sauce, and she drank a beverage made of raisins, almonds, water and other ingredients. She marveled at some young men who were eating raw cucumbers.

Meanwhile, in the New York studio, three GMW personalities also had the opportunity to try the stuffed bread and the raisin drink. They seemed perplexed at the drink (which had "things floating in it") and gingerly tasted the stuffed bread. One asked why was the hot sauce. Diane counseled him to be courageous and try. He tried the hot and didn't seem happy. Then, Robin Roberts asked Diane what she was eating in Afghanistan. Sawyer replied, "Potato chips." I was frankly disappointed and hoped that she, who was so very empathetic, would resort to potato chips -- no matter the reason.

The Good Morning America site include the recipe for the raisin-almond beverage. Recognizing that you kind of have to sing this one, I add it here:

Ab Kishmish (Raisin Drink)

8 oz. golden or dark raisins (almonds optional)
Water
Honey to taste
Rose water to taste

Wash the raisins well. Boil the water and add raisins. Rinse raisins again. Add two cups of hot water, add honey and rosewater to taste. Leave in a cool place or in the refrigerator for at least 24 hours. If making with almonds, boil the almonds separately and peel away the skins before adding to the raisins and hot water.

Recipe from Bamiyan Afghani Restaurant

What I Love About Spring Skiing..And What I Don't

What I Love:

• Sunshine (don't forget the high-SPF suncreen).
• Long days, inspiring some resorts to run the lifts longer in the afternoon.

• Late-season snowstorms. April powder is a bonus.
• No more cold toes. No more cold fingers.
• Firm, fast morning corduroy from the night's grooming (Crested Butte photo, right).
• Moguls softened in the afternoon sun.
• Lifties wearing fun hats and smiles.
• Skiers wearing fun hats and smiles.
• Lunch outside on a deck.
• Apres-ski out on a deck.
• Special end-of-season events (last Saturday's pond skimming at Crested Butte; yesterday's Falmingo Dance in downtown Telluride).

What I Don't Love:

• The reality that another ski season is drawing to a close.

Skiers note that many resorts are already selling 2007-08 season passes, usually at the best prices of the year.

FCC Continues to Nix Inflight Cell Phones

Sometimes, a government agency makes a wise decision. Bless their bureaucratic little hearts, the Federal Communications Commission reaffirmed its earlier decision that passengers still may not use cellphones on planes while in flight. The official reason given was that there is still no solid information on whether cell phones interfere with cell towers on the ground and, perhaps more importantly, with an aircraft's communication system. My brother-in-law, the Airbus captain, claims that cell phones, like video games, distract passengers' attention while the crew is making its announcements. Even though many cell phones feature a "flight mode" that turns off the transmitter off, but still permits other functions, but those remain distractions.

For my part, I don't care why the FCC ruled as it did. I'm simply glad of it. Flying these days isn't all that much fun anymore -- what with security rigmarole, tight quarters and minimalist food. To be trapped in an aircraft cabin with one-sided conversations all around would amount to cruel and inhuman travel punishment. It is annoying enough to be assaulted by relentless and usual trivial jabber in the waiting area and on-board before take-off and immediately upon landing. I've never figured out why so many people feel obligated to call someone and report, "We just landed. We're taxiing now. I'll be getting off the plane in a few minutes."

So thanks, FCC. Stick to your guns. Oops. No guns allowed when we're talking about airplanes.

Brits Muddle Through Carry-On Baggage Regs

All this time, I thought the US Transportation Security Agency had the screwiest policies in traveldom, but I've just been alerted to the nutty inconsistency in Britain. The British Airways website tries to explain the complicated carry-on bag policies, which are as follows:

• Travelers flying to the UK from elsewhere are permitted to carry on whatever number of pieces permitted at their departure country (typically one carry-one, one personal item such as a purse and a cane or crutches if needed).
• Travelers departing from the UK are permitted only one piece of carry-on, which may be no larger than 56 cm x 45 cm x 25 cm (approximately 22 inches x 17.5 inches x 9.85 inches). In addition, customers may now carry musical instruments through security search provided they can be x-ray screened. There doesn't appear to be a size restriction on musical instruments, which can theoretically vary from piccolo to cello or bass.
• Travelers transferring at a UK airport from an international flight to a domestic one are permitted to bring two pieces to a UK airport but may only board their next flight with one, even if they never leave the airport.
• Travelers transferring at a UK airport from one international flight to another international flight are also permitted to board their second flight with justone carry-on.
• Inernational travelers arriving in the UK are permitted one carry-on plus plus a laptop or briefcase.

Considering that London's Heathrow Airport is the world's third-busiest (after Atlanta-Hartsfield and Chicago O'Hare) with nearly 70 million passengers annually, these regulations affect a lot of flyers. If you are traveling internationally and your itinerary includes the airport code LHR, pay special attention.

If the number and type of carry-ons (referred to in British English as opposed to American English as "cabin baggage" or "cabin bags") aren't complicated enough, BA addresses the issue of food, toiletries and medications. This isn't exactly the same as in the US and elsewhere either. The UK follows the European Union rules on carrying liquids aboard. "Limited quantities" (approximately 3.5 fluid ounces) of liquids, gels or pastes must be held in individual containers. No indiction of whether that3.5 ounces is per item or cumulatively for all items. In any event, these "may include" shampoo, cream, hair gel, hairspray, suntan lotion, toothpaste, liquid or aerosol deodorant, perfumes, "cosmetics such mascara and lip gloss."

Water and other drinks, soups and syrups and "other items of similar consistency" must be carried in a separate clear plastic, zip-top or resealable bag that does not exceed 20 cm x 20cm (8 inches x 8 inches) or "equivalent to one litre capacity." All of these items must fit in the bag comfortably and the bag must be completely closed. At the airport security search, the plastic bag must be removed from the cabin bag and x-ray screened separately.

BA says, "Customers can take solid food items onboard for consumption in-flight such as sandwiches, crisps, fruit and vegetables. Drinks and liquid-based food items such as pasta sauces, gravies, stews and curries, jams and yogurts may be taken through security provided they are stored in containers no larger than 100ml and are carried in a clear plastic bag." Interesting that BA makes no mention of baby food or infant formula

Also, "customers can take onboard disposable contact lenses in sealed strips. Non-disposable contact lenses may be taken onboard in holders that contain solution. These do not need to be packed into the clear plastic bag. Additional solution may be taken in a container no bigger than 100ml but this must be carried in the clear plastic bag."

Then there's the whole issue of which are EU countries, which non-EU countries must comply with EU rules and which US and other non-European nations' regulations kick in when flying to or from any of them into or out of the UK.